Camping Essentials - How and what to buy
With dozens of national parks and millions of acres of rugged, uninhabited land, Canada is a haven for camping enthusiasts. But as any boy scout can tell you, you need to be prepared before heading outdoors.
MY ACHIN' FEET!
The first rule of thumb when shopping for hiking boots is, take your time. Don't expect to rush out of the store with a new pair in minutes. And if you've got blisters or swollen feet, wait until you're healed before shopping.
Boots are divided into three basic categories:
- Outdoor Cross-Trainers are designed for even terrain, trail running, day hiking and very short overnight trips. They are also great for sightseeing and traveling. They're comfortable, cushiony and breathable. But as a result, they're not as durable or supportive as other models. Usually the only difference between these and indoor cross-trainers is that they're darker in colour with sturdier soles.
- Mid-Weight Hiking Boots are designed for on and off trail hiking with light to moderate backpack loads (up to 15 pounds). 4-hour hikes are about the limit.
- Extended Backpacking Boots provide more ankle and foot support. They're quite stiff and designed specifically for rough terrain (some are stiff enough to handle crampons for snow/ice travel).
Finding waterproof boots is paramount. Basically, the more seams and stitching a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk of leaking and/or blowouts. Full grain leather boots are extremely waterproof and last for years. But they take longer to break in.
The combination of nylon and split grain leather is a good choice for mid and lightweight footwear. They're soft, don't take long to break in and are cheaper. The downside is they tend to be less water-resistant. Look for styles with waterproof liners. When it comes to fit, wear the type of socks you'll have on while hiking. Laced up, boots should feel snug around the ball and instep of your foot, but loose enough that flexing your foot forward is still comfortable.
In the store, look for a ramp and walk up and down. On the decline your foot should not slip forward easily and you shouldn't be able to move your heel from side to side. You do need a thumb's width room at the end of a hiking boot - when going downhill with a backpack on, this keeps your toes from banging against the front.
Finally, all outdoor footwear hugs your feet differently, so try on a few pairs even if you like the very first ones.
Now that you've got the right footwear…
GIVE ME SHELTER!
Different kinds of camping require different types of tents. Will you drive right up to your campsite or will you hike in after a day of portaging through the rapids? Is it summer or winter? There are two basic styles of tents: cabin and tunnel or dome. The cabin design is excellent for family use. It's roomy and exceptionally strong. But cabins aren't as stable or waterproof and can be difficult to erect. Tunnel or dome tents are best for one or two people. Many are freestanding and don't need stakes or guy lines to remain upright. They're stable and do well in rocky or icy places. But be careful in windy conditions --they can actually blow away without heavy objects like people inside! These tents perform very well in anything but extreme conditions. If you're going to be doing any walking at all, the weight of your tent is a factor. And surprise surprise, lighter materials that are strong and durable are the most expensive.
Fabric is another important consideration. Rip-stop nylon is ideal. It looks like a lot of little squares sewn into the material. It's lighter, more tear-resistant and breathes better than regular taffeta nylon (but it doesn't retain waterproof coatings as well). The upper portion of a tent should be constructed with a combination of rip-stop nylon and mesh panels for ventilation. The bottom should be taffeta nylon with a permanent waterproof coating. Don't buy a tent without checking the tent poles. While they might seem standard, tent poles vary widely in quality. They're made from aluminum or fibreglass. The best are aluminum and about ¼ inch in diameter, flexible, strong and held together with shock cords. Regarding size, look for a tent that's no less than fifteen square feet per person. This allows enough space for a sleeping bag and some personal gear.
Speaking of which…
SNUG AS A BUG IN A RUG
A camping or recreational bag is best suited for family or car camping. They're usually rectangular and keep you warm in temperatures of -7 to 10 degrees. They're comfortable and roomy, but somewhat bulky which can be impractical for backpacking. A winter/expedition bags are for temperatures between 0 to -40 degree - yikes! They're obviously the choice during the colder months and climates, but not year round. When it comes to filling, down is the most compressible, lightest, warmest but most expensive. Well cared for down bags will last a lifetime. The only disadvantage is that if it gets wet, down has no insulation whatsoever until it's completely dry again. Good down bags are constructed with 600 - 750+ fill down. (That means the number of cubic inches one ounce of down will loft to in a uniform test.)
Synthetic fills include name brands like Polarguard, Hollofil, MicroLoft and Primaloft. These are the most reputable and most durable. Synthetics are somewhat heavier and bulkier than down, but they're less expensive. Most importantly, they'll still insulate when soaking wet and they dry faster.
Most importantly, a good insulating sleeping pad is crucial for taking advantage of a bag's warmth. A simple air mattress does not provide insulation, only cushioning. That's because the chambers of an air mattress are large enough to let the air freely circulate and cool down.
Spring is just around the corner, so it's time to start planning those weekend excursions. Happy trails!
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