In addition to it being old, there are some other main considerations to keep in mind when shopping for an antique.

Rarity

• The finer the piece, the fewer that were made originally.
• The more fragile the piece, the less chance that many of them have survived.
• Rarity will generally add to value.

Condition

• A rare piece in great condition adds even more value.
• It is often said that the three things to be most concerned with are condition, condition and condition. That said, as a general rule, the rarer the piece, the more acceptable an imperfection.
• What is acceptable damage in one piece may not be in another.
• More damage = less value.
• If you find something that is broken, but fixable, find out how much an unbroken one is and how much it will cost to repair to see if it is worth it.
• Be careful, some restoring or refinishing can decrease a piece’s value.

Value

• The formula is: age+quality+rarity+condition=value.
• Price guides which can help you determine value.
• When an antique is genuinely rare, and lots of people want it, the price runs up – basic supply and demand.
• Sellers may also try to disperse a collection slowly to keep prices high.
• Do some comparison shopping.

Classification

• Antiques are usually classified according to their countries of origin and dates they were made.
• Predominant classifications derive from styles that originated in London or Paris.
• Names of various periods into which antiques are classified may be derived from the reigning monarch of the time and place they were made.
• For example, a piece may be termed Queen Anne, Georgian, Regency, Victorian, if English, and Napoleonic or Empire if French.
• Sometimes, especially with pieces of furniture, pieces are called by the name of a leading craftsman or designer of the period - for example, Chippendale, Hepplewhite, Sheraton.

One of the most important skills in antiquing is the ability to spot fakes or copies.

• Some are acknowledged as copies or reproductions while others can be out-and-out frauds.
• Most frequently an antique “look-alike” is a reproduction or copy of a recent manufacture.
• If you aren’t sure if something is a copy or not, look around a few stores, if you keep seeing the item in lots of different places, chances are it is a copy.
• A fake or a fraud is a piece made with the specific intent to deceive the purchaser. There is big money to be made from fakes.
• Be wary of labels, on furniture for example, they may indicate a fake.

• This category is usually subdivided into pottery and porcelain/china.
• The majority of antique ceramics found in antique shops comes from the Orient, the Continent or England.
• America didn’t have a major porcelain industry until the 20th Century.
• Collections may be developed on the basis of ware, glaze, ornamentation, form, maker, country or region of origin, or manufacture date.

Furniture

• This area of antiques has more fakes than any other.
• Everyone needs furniture, so it means that more people are competing to collect furniture than any other category of antiques.
• Although much English and American furniture is very similar, the two countries use different period names. Also, the dates that the furniture was made in each country will vary slightly.

Glass

• The most commonly collected are those that were originally made as tableware, especially dishes, glasses, tumblers, decanters, bowls.
• Since glass is especially fragile, many early types are extremely rare.

Metalwork

• The most valued metal work is silver, but brass, pewter, iron and some alloys are also collected.
• Collectors seek fine workmanship, good design, good condition, and some degree of documentation.
• Silver is one of the easiest categories of antiques to conquer.
• Hallmarks can help tell you when, where, and who made the piece.
• Silver must be carefully examined for repairs and restoration.

• Specialized shops are still the backbone of the traditional antique scene, but they are slowly disappearing.
• Are one of the easiest places to begin to learn about antiques. They are less frantic than auction rooms and you don’t have to compete with anyone else for your object of choice.
• Do not expect to get a low price in a specialty shop in a high-rent district.
• Take your time. Do not make decisions in a rush.
• Haggling is acceptable and somewhat expected.
• Ask as many questions as necessary.
• Pick a dealer who is both knowledgeable and trustworthy – check with trade associations and go by word of mouth.
• Dealers can be great source of information and have many reference books on hand.
• A good dealer may let you take things home “on approval.”
• A dealer may also look out for special things to add to your collection if they get to know your taste.
• A dealer can give advice and condition reports on objects you have seen at auction.

Antique Malls

• These are not found in every area.
• You may have to sift through more items that are not technically antiques but collectibles.
• Are best for browsing on a leisurely day, not if you are looking for something specific and in a certain amount of time.

Antique Shows

• Dealers rent booths and display wares for sale.
• Collectors like these because they can see antiques of many dealers displayed together at one place and time.

Auctions

• Auctions can be overwhelming to anyone who has not experienced them before.
• These are not limited to big cities – there are branches of famous firms in many smaller centres.
• There are also networks of local auction houses where you can often buy less expensive antiques provided you are willing to sift through varied goods.
• Auctioneers cover expenses and make profit by charging the seller a percentage.
• Items are usually sold “as is” so it’s important to attend the viewing event prior to the auction to inspect goods you might bid on. All sales are final.

Estate/House/Moving Sales/Tag Sales

• These sales were one a way of getting rid of personal property, but they are now often run by professionals.
• Are great places for deals.
• The drawbacks include having to make up your mind up on the spot, and once you’ve bought it, it’s yours, so make sure you look it over carefully first!

Flea Markets

• Offer lots of variety and good turn-over.
• You may have to dig through boxes yourself.
• Summertime is the height of flea market season, but get there at the crack of dawn if you expect to make a great find.
• Zero in on a new seller, vs. someone who’s there every week – the new sellers are more likely to have treasures from the attic.
• You may be able to get deals closer to the end of day when the seller may not want to bother packing everything up again.
• Ask for more of a discount if you are buying multiple items.

Yard and Garage Sales

• Check the newspaper ads on Thursday and Friday to see which neighbourhoods are having the most yard sales that weekend.
• Go early to get the best finds.
• You may find more junk than treasures, but there are times when really good things can pop up.
• Bring cash.
• If you don’t see anything outside at the garage sale you might try asking your host if they have anything more for sale inside. Also, if considering something large, like a dresser, but you have to arrange for transportation…take a drawer or something with you so you’ll be guaranteed the item will still be there when you return.

For all shopping locales keep the following tips in mind:

• Examine the piece thoroughly (inside, outside, upside down) before you buy.
• Some shops can be very dark, so it doesn’t hurt to take along a flashlight.
• When examining antiques, think quality.
• If you want time to think, ask a dealer to put it on hold for 24 hours to give you time to think or do some extra research on the piece. You may have to leave a deposit.
• Price tags should reveal more than price. They can be real clue as to how much a dealer knows about a piece. If the description is as sparse as “old chair”, you may know as much about it as the dealer.
• The dealer should also write down a complete description of the item the on sales receipt.
• Reputable dealers will accept returns on an item if it turns out to be something other than what it was stated to be.
• If the dealer says there are no returns at all, be wary.
• The ultimate tool you can take shopping is knowledge. Keep learning.
• Learn the key places to check on pieces to verify if they are what you think they are, such as a type of joint on furniture.